KIND KIND WEAVING IN INDONESIA
Before we discuss the weaving Indonesia in Bali, Java, Lombok, etc., let us return briefly to the island of Sumatra. Based on the conversations that occur on twitter yesterday, there are three who left after they were fairly well known, namely Palembang songket, cloth filter from Lampung, and ulos Batak. Thanks to tweeps who've warned!
Palembang songket weaving
That said, weaving in the region of Palembang has existed since ancient kingdom of Srivijaya. Manufacturing technology is not actually originate in the area, but from China, India, and Arab. The existence of trade between nations with the Kingdom of Srivijaya, which in turn leads to acculturation. And, one of the cultural elements absorbed Palembang society is in terms of making woven fabric.
Palembang songket weaving is widely used by women in traditional wedding ceremony, both the bride, female dancers, and female guests who attend. In addition, songket is also used in an official ceremony welcoming officials from outside or from Palembang itself.
Palembang songket motifs generally consist of three parts, the motif of plants (especially the form of stylized flowers), geometric motifs, and a mixture of herbs is also geometric. Motifs are passed from generation to generation so that the pattern has not changed. Some names Palembang songket motifs include: Lepus piham, Lepus plain, Bunge rose, melon seeds, jando ornate, Tigo country, heart of gold,:
Today, not only produced as songket sarong or cloth, but also has produced all kinds of other products. Examples such as drawing walls, tablecloths, rugs, clothing women, sheets, scarves, handkerchiefs, and others.
Tapis cloth
Fabric filter is in the form of Lampung tribe of women's clothing sarong made from cotton yarn woven with diverse motives, such as the motif of nature, flora, and fauna that are embroidered (front line system) with gold and silver thread. Weave is usually used on the waist down. According to Van der Hoop, since the second century AD, the people of Lampung has been weaving brocade and cloth called Pelepai tray. Both of these results has woven motifs such as motif hooks and female friend, trees and buildings that contain the life of the human spirit that has died, animals, sun, moon, and jasmine. After passing the time span is long enough, eventually born Lampung cloth filter. Lampung people continue to develop the fabric filter in accordance with the times in terms of both manufacturing techniques and motives.
This type of filter cloth variety, can be viewed by region of origin or according to the wearer. By region of origin, some types of fabric filters are as follows: from the Coastal region, such as filters Inuh, Cucuk Andak, Semaka, Yellow, Cukkil, and Jinggu; of Way Kanan River area, such as filters Jung Sarat, Balak, shoots Bamboo shoots, Halom / Gabo, Glass, Lawok Halam, Tuha, King Medal, and Lawok Silung. While the example filter according to its use include: Jung Sarat filter, commonly used in the bride's traditional marriage ceremony; King Single filter, worn by the wife of the oldest relatives (tuho penyimbang) on traditional marriage ceremony and taking the title, both titles prince and sovereign; Medal King filter, normally used by the wife of the oldest family in traditional ceremonies, such as ceremonies and taking his son to marry a prince; filter Andak Sea, commonly worn by the girl at the customs cangget dancers, and others. These are some examples of the types of filters according to the wearer.
Ulos Batak
Ulos fabric typical of Lake Toba is one of the Batak traditional handicrafts are very famous. Fabric is usually woven with gold and silver is predominantly red, black, and white. First, the cloth is only used as a shawl and sarong kebaya for the couple. However, at this time has been modified so often used in products that are more attractive and economically valuable, such as pillow cases, bags, clothes, and others.
For the Batak, ulos not only used for daily wear, but also for traditional ceremonies. The use of fabric, there are three ways, namely by siabithononton (used), sihadanghononton (wrapped around the head / carry), sitalitalihononton (wrapped around the waist). However, not all types of ulos can be used in daily activities.Aside from being a protector of the body, it also serves a symbolic ulos. Ulos of certain types of fabric believed to contain magical power and is considered sacred and has the magical power to protect the wearer.
There are various types ulos, among them: maratur star, ragiidup, sibolang, ragihotang, Mangiring, dansadum. Various types mempuyai Ulos the level of complexity, value, and different functions. The more complicated the creation of a Ulos, then the higher value and the price is also more expensive. Reportedly, at this time, most of the Batak ulos almost extinct, as has been discontinued, as ulos king, yeast botik, sombre, saput (ulos used as wrapping the corpse), and ulos sibolang.
4. Java
Although Java is more famous for its variety of batik, but there is a possibility that once, long before the familiar batik, ikat technique has been known in advance. According to archaeologists, the relief in the temples of the 14th century relics resemble decorative motifs of batik. However, Matiebelle in his book "Splendid Symbols, Textiles and Tradition in Indonesia (1977)" says that the possible motive is not only applied to batik course, but there has been first in WEAVING cloth belt.
Despite a history of weaving in Java, there are several areas in Java, which has woven with beautiful motifs glimpsed even in foreign countries, such as the Bedouin weaving of Banten, West Java and weaving troso from Jepara, Central Java.
Weaving Troso
Troso is the name of one of the villages in the district Pecangaan, Jepara regency. In this village, troso weaving community activism.Actually, the technique of weaving looms troso gedok and in the long term evolve into ikat. This weaving craft that developed since the Dutch era has about 50 unique patterns that kept Troso authenticity, such as warp ikat patterns, fish feed, and striated. In addition to these motifs, some weaving Troso also said that many who adopt the style shades Troso other areas, such as the primitive style of Sumbawa and Kalimantan.
In Jepara, weaving Troso an official uniform civil servants and employees of enterprises every Thursday - Saturday. However, after the introduction of five working days, weaving Troso used as a uniform on Thursday and Friday.
Bedouin weaving
If you examine the first acid in the Bedouin tradition of weaving, of course, be related to the history of the society itself. According Anisjatisunda, the old Sundanese culture examines Bedouin, Bedouin weaving has existed since the community was settled in behind Mount Kendeng (Kanekes area now). To satisfy his need for clothing, Bedouin communities in the days of empire Padjajaran, utilizing the existing natural potential. At that time, the natural resources in the form of cotton is the most easily obtainable. Thus, there is processed into cotton cloth with a simple spinning, then by means of the woven wood and bamboo around it.
The white color is the dominant color in addition to the black Bedouin weaving, is the earliest color used by the Bedouin community. The white color is not colored because it uses the original color of white cotton. This white color means bright, clean, or represented as Hyang who have no form. For the black Bedouin weaving, is the hallmark of which is owned by foreign Baduy. The black color here implies a dark or night. In the context of the Bedouin, this color will be the patron behind the light.
Bedouin weaving is in addition very ogled because keeksotisannya local designers, were reportedly also been entered into overseas markets, namely Europe and the Middle East.
5. Bali
Bali also has a wide range of woven favored by both local and international designers, such as weaving gringsing of Karangasem, woven tube of Nusa Penida, and weaving endek.
Weaving Gringsing
Also called Wastra gringsing made from cotton yarn with a variety of motifs formed from double ikat (tie yarns and weft lungsi once). It is said that this kind of double weave is very rare, only available in Japan as well as India, other than Indonesia. Making takes a long time, ranging from one to five years, and be done with a difficult technique. Later, the weaving gringsing will form the pattern matching geomteris neat and beautiful.
Wastra gringsing woven by the village of Tenganan Pagringsingan.However, the process of indigo dyeing and brown it done in other villages. Because it is considered taboo if it is done in the same village. Therefore, the process of indigo dyeing is usually carried out in the village of Bug-bug and red-brown color made in the village of Nusa Penida.
Motives are often used in weaving Gringsing very typical, among other motifs taken from Puppet Bah Mahabaratha story. Woven with a pattern is often used in dance and Rejang Abuang in sacred rituals by both men and women. Outside the village of Tenganan, gringsing cloth worn under his head in gear-cutting ceremony is a ceremony or mepandes metatah. The fabric is also used in ceremonies menek Daha (ceremonies marking puberty) and pemapah bride in the marriage ceremony. By a shaman or healer, gringsing fabric used to treat the sick by covering the body or diseased parts of the patient. In addition, gringsing fabric is also used to decorate temples, shrines, and towers in the cremation ceremony.
Weaving Endek
Endek woven ikat technique with decorative improvements in certain parts of the fabric by adding coletan called nyantri. Nyantri is the addition of color with brush strokes of the bamboo like a painting. Nyantrinya diverse motives, such as flora, fauna, as well as motifs taken from Balinese mythology and puppets. Weaving is also a lot endek given a combination of gold thread songket or silver ornaments found on the edge of the fabric.
Endek weaving can be found in two common forms. The first form sheath and used by men. Endek sarong has a connection in the middle or side. The second form of long cloth used by women. This fabric has a motif at the edges while the middle plain.
Endek often used as a custom clothing, and the demand by various levels of society. In addition to the traditional clothes, woven endek can also be found on the man's shirt, dress, or material of a residential interior design decoration.
6. Chili
Yes, now we're going to move to the next island! Lombok island ..Not only does it save the natural beauty and cultural arts, Lombok also has a unique handicraft, which is woven with motifs which are also pretty typical.
Sasak weaving
Sade village is a center of production of the famous woven Sasak Lombok. The women do the weaving in the old ways, ranging from the manufacture of yarn using natural ingredients such as pineapple fiber, banana fiber, cotton, bark; also in terms of coloring the use of natural materials, such as the yellow color of turmeric, brown bark, red from betel leaves, and purple from indigo.
According to one of the village artisans weaving sasak Sukarara, Central Lombok, weaving motif sasak more than 150 species, both native motifs of earlier craftsmen and artisans development of the next result. For woven Sasak motifs include the results of the creative process is subahnale palm flowers, subahnale bali, month brackets and remawe star.
Weaving Bayan
Weaving of different kinds of styles can also be found in Bayan district, North Lombok. In this area, woven with specific patterns even must be owned by indigenous people. For example, woven fabrics such as londong brother (red cloth) shall be used when attending rituals, such as maulidan, widths, and the Koran's tomb.
Bayan weaving quite complex and difficult. All of the manufacturing process uses wood and bamboo tools are manually operated.Search time can be up to two weeks. In this process though may be similar to that found in other places, but the difference between the outer fabric woven with Bayan Bayan is any pattern created describing the wearer from a particular village huts or in the Bayan.
Local weaving and Indonesia in the World Stage
Indonesia is also a lot of weaving beauty enchant the famous fashion designer. Why? Because in addition to beautiful, woven fabric can make the wearer more graceful too exotic.
Look Toegimin Uke, a fashion designer from West Kalimantan Dayak ikat raised in his works are said to be the work of a "touch of traditional international taste"
And, for the world, some local designers have brought in a weaving demonstration, international fashion, as in the Pret-a-Porter, Paris, hosted by Budi Winarko Hamy, Danny Great Wirawan, Priyo Oktaviano, and Adi Teguh Prabawa.
Designers from around the world are very interested in weaving, such as designer Laura Miles from the UK. In fact, the two international brands Gucci and Christian Dior recently Indonesia are interested in using weaving in product variants
Palembang songket weaving
That said, weaving in the region of Palembang has existed since ancient kingdom of Srivijaya. Manufacturing technology is not actually originate in the area, but from China, India, and Arab. The existence of trade between nations with the Kingdom of Srivijaya, which in turn leads to acculturation. And, one of the cultural elements absorbed Palembang society is in terms of making woven fabric.
Palembang songket weaving is widely used by women in traditional wedding ceremony, both the bride, female dancers, and female guests who attend. In addition, songket is also used in an official ceremony welcoming officials from outside or from Palembang itself.
Palembang songket motifs generally consist of three parts, the motif of plants (especially the form of stylized flowers), geometric motifs, and a mixture of herbs is also geometric. Motifs are passed from generation to generation so that the pattern has not changed. Some names Palembang songket motifs include: Lepus piham, Lepus plain, Bunge rose, melon seeds, jando ornate, Tigo country, heart of gold,:
Today, not only produced as songket sarong or cloth, but also has produced all kinds of other products. Examples such as drawing walls, tablecloths, rugs, clothing women, sheets, scarves, handkerchiefs, and others.
Tapis cloth
Fabric filter is in the form of Lampung tribe of women's clothing sarong made from cotton yarn woven with diverse motives, such as the motif of nature, flora, and fauna that are embroidered (front line system) with gold and silver thread. Weave is usually used on the waist down. According to Van der Hoop, since the second century AD, the people of Lampung has been weaving brocade and cloth called Pelepai tray. Both of these results has woven motifs such as motif hooks and female friend, trees and buildings that contain the life of the human spirit that has died, animals, sun, moon, and jasmine. After passing the time span is long enough, eventually born Lampung cloth filter. Lampung people continue to develop the fabric filter in accordance with the times in terms of both manufacturing techniques and motives.
This type of filter cloth variety, can be viewed by region of origin or according to the wearer. By region of origin, some types of fabric filters are as follows: from the Coastal region, such as filters Inuh, Cucuk Andak, Semaka, Yellow, Cukkil, and Jinggu; of Way Kanan River area, such as filters Jung Sarat, Balak, shoots Bamboo shoots, Halom / Gabo, Glass, Lawok Halam, Tuha, King Medal, and Lawok Silung. While the example filter according to its use include: Jung Sarat filter, commonly used in the bride's traditional marriage ceremony; King Single filter, worn by the wife of the oldest relatives (tuho penyimbang) on traditional marriage ceremony and taking the title, both titles prince and sovereign; Medal King filter, normally used by the wife of the oldest family in traditional ceremonies, such as ceremonies and taking his son to marry a prince; filter Andak Sea, commonly worn by the girl at the customs cangget dancers, and others. These are some examples of the types of filters according to the wearer.
Ulos Batak
Ulos fabric typical of Lake Toba is one of the Batak traditional handicrafts are very famous. Fabric is usually woven with gold and silver is predominantly red, black, and white. First, the cloth is only used as a shawl and sarong kebaya for the couple. However, at this time has been modified so often used in products that are more attractive and economically valuable, such as pillow cases, bags, clothes, and others.
For the Batak, ulos not only used for daily wear, but also for traditional ceremonies. The use of fabric, there are three ways, namely by siabithononton (used), sihadanghononton (wrapped around the head / carry), sitalitalihononton (wrapped around the waist). However, not all types of ulos can be used in daily activities.Aside from being a protector of the body, it also serves a symbolic ulos. Ulos of certain types of fabric believed to contain magical power and is considered sacred and has the magical power to protect the wearer.
There are various types ulos, among them: maratur star, ragiidup, sibolang, ragihotang, Mangiring, dansadum. Various types mempuyai Ulos the level of complexity, value, and different functions. The more complicated the creation of a Ulos, then the higher value and the price is also more expensive. Reportedly, at this time, most of the Batak ulos almost extinct, as has been discontinued, as ulos king, yeast botik, sombre, saput (ulos used as wrapping the corpse), and ulos sibolang.
4. Java
Although Java is more famous for its variety of batik, but there is a possibility that once, long before the familiar batik, ikat technique has been known in advance. According to archaeologists, the relief in the temples of the 14th century relics resemble decorative motifs of batik. However, Matiebelle in his book "Splendid Symbols, Textiles and Tradition in Indonesia (1977)" says that the possible motive is not only applied to batik course, but there has been first in WEAVING cloth belt.
Despite a history of weaving in Java, there are several areas in Java, which has woven with beautiful motifs glimpsed even in foreign countries, such as the Bedouin weaving of Banten, West Java and weaving troso from Jepara, Central Java.
Weaving Troso
Troso is the name of one of the villages in the district Pecangaan, Jepara regency. In this village, troso weaving community activism.Actually, the technique of weaving looms troso gedok and in the long term evolve into ikat. This weaving craft that developed since the Dutch era has about 50 unique patterns that kept Troso authenticity, such as warp ikat patterns, fish feed, and striated. In addition to these motifs, some weaving Troso also said that many who adopt the style shades Troso other areas, such as the primitive style of Sumbawa and Kalimantan.
In Jepara, weaving Troso an official uniform civil servants and employees of enterprises every Thursday - Saturday. However, after the introduction of five working days, weaving Troso used as a uniform on Thursday and Friday.
Bedouin weaving
If you examine the first acid in the Bedouin tradition of weaving, of course, be related to the history of the society itself. According Anisjatisunda, the old Sundanese culture examines Bedouin, Bedouin weaving has existed since the community was settled in behind Mount Kendeng (Kanekes area now). To satisfy his need for clothing, Bedouin communities in the days of empire Padjajaran, utilizing the existing natural potential. At that time, the natural resources in the form of cotton is the most easily obtainable. Thus, there is processed into cotton cloth with a simple spinning, then by means of the woven wood and bamboo around it.
The white color is the dominant color in addition to the black Bedouin weaving, is the earliest color used by the Bedouin community. The white color is not colored because it uses the original color of white cotton. This white color means bright, clean, or represented as Hyang who have no form. For the black Bedouin weaving, is the hallmark of which is owned by foreign Baduy. The black color here implies a dark or night. In the context of the Bedouin, this color will be the patron behind the light.
Bedouin weaving is in addition very ogled because keeksotisannya local designers, were reportedly also been entered into overseas markets, namely Europe and the Middle East.
5. Bali
Bali also has a wide range of woven favored by both local and international designers, such as weaving gringsing of Karangasem, woven tube of Nusa Penida, and weaving endek.
Weaving Gringsing
Also called Wastra gringsing made from cotton yarn with a variety of motifs formed from double ikat (tie yarns and weft lungsi once). It is said that this kind of double weave is very rare, only available in Japan as well as India, other than Indonesia. Making takes a long time, ranging from one to five years, and be done with a difficult technique. Later, the weaving gringsing will form the pattern matching geomteris neat and beautiful.
Wastra gringsing woven by the village of Tenganan Pagringsingan.However, the process of indigo dyeing and brown it done in other villages. Because it is considered taboo if it is done in the same village. Therefore, the process of indigo dyeing is usually carried out in the village of Bug-bug and red-brown color made in the village of Nusa Penida.
Motives are often used in weaving Gringsing very typical, among other motifs taken from Puppet Bah Mahabaratha story. Woven with a pattern is often used in dance and Rejang Abuang in sacred rituals by both men and women. Outside the village of Tenganan, gringsing cloth worn under his head in gear-cutting ceremony is a ceremony or mepandes metatah. The fabric is also used in ceremonies menek Daha (ceremonies marking puberty) and pemapah bride in the marriage ceremony. By a shaman or healer, gringsing fabric used to treat the sick by covering the body or diseased parts of the patient. In addition, gringsing fabric is also used to decorate temples, shrines, and towers in the cremation ceremony.
Weaving Endek
Endek woven ikat technique with decorative improvements in certain parts of the fabric by adding coletan called nyantri. Nyantri is the addition of color with brush strokes of the bamboo like a painting. Nyantrinya diverse motives, such as flora, fauna, as well as motifs taken from Balinese mythology and puppets. Weaving is also a lot endek given a combination of gold thread songket or silver ornaments found on the edge of the fabric.
Endek weaving can be found in two common forms. The first form sheath and used by men. Endek sarong has a connection in the middle or side. The second form of long cloth used by women. This fabric has a motif at the edges while the middle plain.
Endek often used as a custom clothing, and the demand by various levels of society. In addition to the traditional clothes, woven endek can also be found on the man's shirt, dress, or material of a residential interior design decoration.
6. Chili
Yes, now we're going to move to the next island! Lombok island ..Not only does it save the natural beauty and cultural arts, Lombok also has a unique handicraft, which is woven with motifs which are also pretty typical.
Sasak weaving
Sade village is a center of production of the famous woven Sasak Lombok. The women do the weaving in the old ways, ranging from the manufacture of yarn using natural ingredients such as pineapple fiber, banana fiber, cotton, bark; also in terms of coloring the use of natural materials, such as the yellow color of turmeric, brown bark, red from betel leaves, and purple from indigo.
According to one of the village artisans weaving sasak Sukarara, Central Lombok, weaving motif sasak more than 150 species, both native motifs of earlier craftsmen and artisans development of the next result. For woven Sasak motifs include the results of the creative process is subahnale palm flowers, subahnale bali, month brackets and remawe star.
Weaving Bayan
Weaving of different kinds of styles can also be found in Bayan district, North Lombok. In this area, woven with specific patterns even must be owned by indigenous people. For example, woven fabrics such as londong brother (red cloth) shall be used when attending rituals, such as maulidan, widths, and the Koran's tomb.
Bayan weaving quite complex and difficult. All of the manufacturing process uses wood and bamboo tools are manually operated.Search time can be up to two weeks. In this process though may be similar to that found in other places, but the difference between the outer fabric woven with Bayan Bayan is any pattern created describing the wearer from a particular village huts or in the Bayan.
Local weaving and Indonesia in the World Stage
Indonesia is also a lot of weaving beauty enchant the famous fashion designer. Why? Because in addition to beautiful, woven fabric can make the wearer more graceful too exotic.
Look Toegimin Uke, a fashion designer from West Kalimantan Dayak ikat raised in his works are said to be the work of a "touch of traditional international taste"
And, for the world, some local designers have brought in a weaving demonstration, international fashion, as in the Pret-a-Porter, Paris, hosted by Budi Winarko Hamy, Danny Great Wirawan, Priyo Oktaviano, and Adi Teguh Prabawa.
Designers from around the world are very interested in weaving, such as designer Laura Miles from the UK. In fact, the two international brands Gucci and Christian Dior recently Indonesia are interested in using weaving in product variants
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